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Hello Martin,
I was able to buy a bundle of old "Bergsteiger" magazines and found an interesting article about ice pitons in a 1939 issue. The article is written in old German script and is difficult to read. Here is a short summary: Ice pitons were invented by Fritz Rigele in 1924 and tested for the first time with Willi Welzenbach on the north-west face of the Großes Wiesbachhorn. The Rigele/Welzenbach ice piton is an iron pin up to 32cm long with a ring, barbed at the tip. The first disadvantage is, on the one hand, that the ring eye is often crushed when hammered in and the the ring is no longer movable. Secondly, the piton often loosens out of the ice when exposed to heat or stress, and because the teeth are only on the conical tip, the piton no longer has a hold. In 1938, the engineer H. Jungel from Liezen (Styria / Austria ) invented a new ice piton. The new ice piton is slimmer, shorter and the barbs are distributed over the whole length of the pin. The ring is in a lateral eye so that the hammer beat no longer squeezes the eye. Matthias |
History of ice pitons c.1939
1939 product.
- Illus #3 in History of Ice Pitons - Four teeth equal on both sides at the tip of the ice piton. |
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What is strange is that in the REI 1961 catalog it shows the ASMU ice screw piton with a ring and without. And the ring version has two sizes. But the catalog lists the items as "Swiss" ice screw pitons, where ASMU is German. I thought that this could be a mistake in the catalog, but in the 1963 Sporthaus Schuster catalog, the ASMU ice screw piton is removed. So what I am saying here is, I don't think Sporthaus Schuster for the year 1962 created a second size ice screw piton and a ringless version as well, just to discontinue it in 1963. So where actually did these super cool ice screw pitons come from? And since ASMU doesn't show that they made the ringless version, it places the ringless version in the Unknown file listed as UNKNOWN # 19 ice screw piton.
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REI 1961 catalog
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