For now I am referring to this particular ice tube piton as the David Bernays Mystery Ice Tube Piton. I recently got into a conversation with Todd Swain about this ice tube piton and both of us at the end of the conversation agreed that it is definitely a mystery. The research was presented and the information seems to be all over the place.
Photo from Todd Swain's guidebook: A Ice Climbers Guide to New England and Eastern New York. In the photo the Ice tube tips are beveled.
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Unknown Ice Tube Piton in the Chouinard collection. Possibly a later 1960s version since some of the holes on the tube are triangular in shape. Tube tip is not beveled.
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Let’s take a look at the research and the names given to the item:
From Todd: Dave Bernays of NY and later MIT made ice pitons very much like this that were used on the American K2 expedition. The K2 book says they were designed and made by Bernays. I have three other sources that also say Bernays made ice pitons while at MIT. One source is a tracing of the ice piton done circa 1980, which matches the design we are talking about. His were made in time for that 1952 trip. I wonder if he copied the Swiss, or the Swiss copied him... what year is the Holubar catalog? Dave Bernays born 1932 - died 1980).
So the Mystery Ice Tube Piton created by Dave Bernays of New York USA has the earliest date of 1952.
Name of item: Tubular Steel Ice Piton
From Todd: Dave Bernays of NY and later MIT made ice pitons very much like this that were used on the American K2 expedition. The K2 book says they were designed and made by Bernays. I have three other sources that also say Bernays made ice pitons while at MIT. One source is a tracing of the ice piton done circa 1980, which matches the design we are talking about. His were made in time for that 1952 trip. I wonder if he copied the Swiss, or the Swiss copied him... what year is the Holubar catalog? Dave Bernays born 1932 - died 1980).
So the Mystery Ice Tube Piton created by Dave Bernays of New York USA has the earliest date of 1952.
Name of item: Tubular Steel Ice Piton
Holubar 1954/1955 catalog. Item #11 is named: Swiss Tubular Ice Piton. So for sure this particular ice tube piton goes back to the early/mid 1950s.
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REI 1959 catalog. In the upper right hand corner the ice piton is shown. Named: Pipe Ice Piton With Holes. The 1958 REI catalog does not show the item.
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REI 1961 catalog. In the upper right hand corner the ice piton is shown. Named: Austrian Ice Pipe. The ice tube end is shown as beveled in the illustration.
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From Todd: Re: the Dave Bernays tubular ice pitons: 1) They only had circular holes in the shaft, whereas the Chouinard one you shared had circular and triangular holes. The Bernays holes seemed to be randomly placed. 2) The end that went into the ice on the Bernays was beveled; can't tell if that's the same on your red Chouinard one. 3) Bernays' ice pitons are specifically mentioned in K2 The Savage Mountain by Bob Bates and Charles Houston (the book about the American K2 attempt) |
From Marty: In the K2 book does it mention that the ice tubular pitons were created by Dave Bernays? This brings up a few theories, maybe Dave sold his idea to the Swiss company? Maybe Dave gave the Swiss company his design, and the Swiss company created them but Dave still got the credit for the design creation. Possibly Dave’s ice tube pitons are a earlier version of the Swiss Ice Tubular Piton. It seems weird that if the Swiss copied Dave’s ice tube pitons, that they would paint them exactly the same, and also have the same somewhat sloppy weld type pattern to them. Nevertheless its cool that they date to the early 1950s!
From Todd: Yes, it's weird both are painted red. Bernays passed away a long time ago and other than the two Contemporaries I have found, the others are gone too...
From Todd: Yes, it's weird both are painted red. Bernays passed away a long time ago and other than the two Contemporaries I have found, the others are gone too...
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The 1953 REI catalog is showing a illustration of a Alf Bhend ice pipe piton, but what is being mentioned is that the Alf Bhend is not in stock yet, but a item that looks similar to the Alf Bhend they do have. I am making a secure guess here that what they are mentioning is that REI does have the Bernays Ice piton for sale. The Bernays is the only tubular type piton that looks similar to the Alf Bhend. So this information shows the Bernays ice pipe piton in 1953.
- REI 1953 catalog
The REI 1958 catalog shows only the Alf Bhend ice pipe piton.
- REI 1958 catalog
The REI 1959 catalog shows a illustration of the Bernays ice pipe piton, and no mention of the Alf Bhend.
The illustration lists it as a “Pipe Ice Piton with Holes.” 
- REI 1959 catalog
The REI 1962 catalog lists the Bernays as a “Austrian Ice Pipe.”
(The REI 1963 catalog shows no Ice Pipes listing). 
- REI 1962 catalog
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From: Todd Swain 9/21/2022 I hit the jackpot yesterday - interviewing a 91-year old in Randolph, NH and asked if he had ever heard of Dave Bernays. His reply: "Oh yes, I climbed with him several times and have one of his ice pitons." We go to the garage, rummage thru boxes and there's an ice piton with tape on it "1955." As you can see, it's similar to the red one we have corresponded about, but different. Relatedly, I tracked down Dave Bernay's widow and am hoping to interview her this weekend. Hope all's well with you! |
Photo: Todd Swain
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From: Marty 9/25/2022
Todd,
That's totally awesome!!!! A few days ago I was doing research on F.Ralling gear and when I googled it a article from 2010 Ascent mag came up showing the Bernays ice piton saying it was made by F.Ralling. Good grief. If nobody can figure it out, then lets just say that everybody made this piton!
I am excited to hear what else you find out about the Bernays Ice piton.
Todd,
That's totally awesome!!!! A few days ago I was doing research on F.Ralling gear and when I googled it a article from 2010 Ascent mag came up showing the Bernays ice piton saying it was made by F.Ralling. Good grief. If nobody can figure it out, then lets just say that everybody made this piton!
I am excited to hear what else you find out about the Bernays Ice piton.
From: Todd Swain 9/26/2022
I showed Frances Bernays, widow of Dave Bernays, the ice piton today. She confirmed it was one of his. She guessed only 20 or so were made circa 1953-55.
I showed Frances Bernays, widow of Dave Bernays, the ice piton today. She confirmed it was one of his. She guessed only 20 or so were made circa 1953-55.
Bernays Ice Tube piton - Photo 7/2024 by Jonathan Bernays (Davids Son).
(From Todd:)
Happy New Year! 1/8/2025
I have the only known example of a Bernays ice piton. I assume a few others are out there somewhere, but I have yet to find any, despite lots of searching.
The Bernays ice piton I have is 9-1/4" long and 5/8" diameter. The holes were drilled straight through the tube and were done with a handheld power drill (rather than a drill press). The holes are randomly placed along/around the tube. The tube is a consistent diameter, as were all ice pitons and screws until the late 1980s.
If other Bernays pitons are found, my bet is the length will vary (there's no logical reason I can think of as to why they should be 9-1/4"; my bet is the goal was 9" which would divide evenly into a three or six foot piece of tubular stock). Relatedly, the handful of surviving examples of Ed Nester's ice pitons (the Nester SuperScrew) are all slightly different lengths; a sign of the handmade nature of the objects.
I believe the holes in the tube were an improvement over the WWII US Army tubular ice pitons because once driven into the ice, the holes might allow the ice to pass through the holes, freezing the tube in place (the Army tubular screws had no holes, were black in color and notorious for melting loose in the ice on a sunny day).
Hope that helps.
Happy New Year! 1/8/2025
I have the only known example of a Bernays ice piton. I assume a few others are out there somewhere, but I have yet to find any, despite lots of searching.
The Bernays ice piton I have is 9-1/4" long and 5/8" diameter. The holes were drilled straight through the tube and were done with a handheld power drill (rather than a drill press). The holes are randomly placed along/around the tube. The tube is a consistent diameter, as were all ice pitons and screws until the late 1980s.
If other Bernays pitons are found, my bet is the length will vary (there's no logical reason I can think of as to why they should be 9-1/4"; my bet is the goal was 9" which would divide evenly into a three or six foot piece of tubular stock). Relatedly, the handful of surviving examples of Ed Nester's ice pitons (the Nester SuperScrew) are all slightly different lengths; a sign of the handmade nature of the objects.
I believe the holes in the tube were an improvement over the WWII US Army tubular ice pitons because once driven into the ice, the holes might allow the ice to pass through the holes, freezing the tube in place (the Army tubular screws had no holes, were black in color and notorious for melting loose in the ice on a sunny day).
Hope that helps.