For now I am referring to this particular ice tube piton as the David Bernays Mystery Ice Tube Piton. I recently got into a conversation with Todd Swain about this ice tube piton and both of us at the end of the conversation agreed that it is definitely a mystery. The research was presented and the information seems to be all over the place.
Photo from Todd Swain's guidebook: A Ice Climbers Guide to New England and Eastern New York. In the photo the Ice tube tips are beveled.
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Unknown Ice Tube Piton in the Chouinard collection. Possibly a later 1960s version since some of the holes on the tube are triangular in shape. Tube tip is not beveled.
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Let’s take a look at the research and the names given to the item:
From Todd: Dave Bernays of NY and later MIT made ice pitons very much like this that were used on the American K2 expedition. The K2 book says they were designed and made by Bernays. I have three other sources that also say Bernays made ice pitons while at MIT. One source is a tracing of the ice piton done circa 1980, which matches the design we are talking about. His were made in time for that 1952 trip. I wonder if he copied the Swiss, or the Swiss copied him... what year is the Holubar catalog? Dave Bernays born 1932 - died 1980).
So the Mystery Ice Tube Piton created by Dave Bernays of New York USA has the earliest date of 1952.
Name of item: Tubular Steel Ice Piton
From Todd: Dave Bernays of NY and later MIT made ice pitons very much like this that were used on the American K2 expedition. The K2 book says they were designed and made by Bernays. I have three other sources that also say Bernays made ice pitons while at MIT. One source is a tracing of the ice piton done circa 1980, which matches the design we are talking about. His were made in time for that 1952 trip. I wonder if he copied the Swiss, or the Swiss copied him... what year is the Holubar catalog? Dave Bernays born 1932 - died 1980).
So the Mystery Ice Tube Piton created by Dave Bernays of New York USA has the earliest date of 1952.
Name of item: Tubular Steel Ice Piton
Holubar 1954/1955 catalog. Item #11 is named: Swiss Tubular Ice Piton. So for sure this particular ice tube piton goes back to the early/mid 1950s.
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REI 1959 catalog. In the upper right hand corner the ice piton is shown. Named: Pipe Ice Piton With Holes. The 1958 REI catalog does not show the item.
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REI 1961 catalog. In the upper right hand corner the ice piton is shown. Named: Austrian Ice Pipe. The ice tube end is shown as beveled in the illustration.
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From Todd: Re: the Dave Bernays tubular ice pitons: 1) They only had circular holes in the shaft, whereas the Chouinard one you shared had circular and triangular holes. The Bernays holes seemed to be randomly placed. 2) The end that went into the ice on the Bernays was beveled; can't tell if that's the same on your red Chouinard one. 3) Bernays' ice pitons are specifically mentioned in K2 The Savage Mountain by Bob Bates and Charles Houston (the book about the American K2 attempt) |
From Marty: In the K2 book does it mention that the ice tubular pitons were created by Dave Bernays? This brings up a few theories, maybe Dave sold his idea to the Swiss company? Maybe Dave gave the Swiss company his design, and the Swiss company created them but Dave still got the credit for the design creation. Possibly Dave’s ice tube pitons are a earlier version of the Swiss Ice Tubular Piton. It seems weird that if the Swiss copied Dave’s ice tube pitons, that they would paint them exactly the same, and also have the same somewhat sloppy weld type pattern to them. Nevertheless its cool that they date to the early 1950s!
From Todd: Yes, it's weird both are painted red. Bernays passed away a long time ago and other than the two Contemporaries I have found, the others are gone too...
From Todd: Yes, it's weird both are painted red. Bernays passed away a long time ago and other than the two Contemporaries I have found, the others are gone too...
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From: Todd Swain 9/21/2022 I hit the jackpot yesterday - interviewing a 91-year old in Randolph, NH and asked if he had ever heard of Dave Bernays. His reply: "Oh yes, I climbed with him several times and have one of his ice pitons." We go to the garage, rummage thru boxes and there's an ice piton with tape on it "1955." As you can see, it's similar to the red one we have corresponded about, but different. Relatedly, I tracked down Dave Bernay's widow and am hoping to interview her this weekend. Hope all's well with you! |
Photo: Todd Swain
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From: Marty 9/25/2022
Todd,
That's totally awesome!!!! A few days ago I was doing research on F.Ralling gear and when I googled it a article from 2010 Ascent mag came up showing the Bernays ice piton saying it was made by F.Ralling. Good grief. If nobody can figure it out, then lets just say that everybody made this piton!
I am excited to hear what else you find out about the Bernays Ice piton.
Todd,
That's totally awesome!!!! A few days ago I was doing research on F.Ralling gear and when I googled it a article from 2010 Ascent mag came up showing the Bernays ice piton saying it was made by F.Ralling. Good grief. If nobody can figure it out, then lets just say that everybody made this piton!
I am excited to hear what else you find out about the Bernays Ice piton.
From: Todd Swain 9/26/2022
I showed Frances Bernays, widow of Dave Bernays, the ice piton today. She confirmed it was one of his. She guessed only 20 or so were made circa 1953-55.
I showed Frances Bernays, widow of Dave Bernays, the ice piton today. She confirmed it was one of his. She guessed only 20 or so were made circa 1953-55.