I came across these two triangle nuts a few years ago and could not find any information on them. However recently 8/2024, somebody put a few patent drawings up for sale on ebay, and to my surprise one of the drawings was of these nuts. Partial mystery solved!
Next questions are:
- What is the name of these nuts?
- How many sizes were made?
- Were they ever sold to the public?

Inventor: John Brent Burkey
Denver Colorado USA
Patent filed: June 17, 1976 - Patent Date: April 4, 1978
Three different nut variations are shown in the Patent drawings as Fig 1 - Fig 10. The Burkey nuts shown in the photos are Fig 1 - Fig 4.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is an assembly view of a preferred form of chock assembly representing typical placement of the chock in a crevice.
FIG. 2 is a view partially in section of the chock assembly shown in FIG. 1.
FIG. 3 is an elevational view of the preferred form of chock.
FIG. 4 is a plan view of the preferred form of chock.
FIG. 5 is a plan view of a modified form of chock.
FIG. 6 is an elevational view of the modified form of chock shown in FIG. 5.
FIG. 7 is a plan view of the opposite end of the modified form of chock shown in FIGS. 5 and 6.
FIG. 8 is a plan view of another modified form of chock.
FIG. 9 is an elevational view of the modified form of chock shown in FIG. 8; and
FIG. 10 is a plan view of the opposite end of the modified form of chock shown in FIGS. 8 and 9.
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From Stephane Pennequin:
An early ascent of Left Wall by Rowland Edwards and Eric Jones ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiiJ7OfdEbk ) filmed by Bob Godfrey in 1964. One of the first films to show how the original nut protection was used in climbing at that time. Shortly after this film was made Rowland Edwards free climbed the route but never claim the ascent as he had practiced it a number of times whilst making the film. That was how climbing ethics worked back in the early sixties, practicing climbs and top roping was thought to be unethical. How times change. In 1973, he soloed the route, In 1975 Rowland Edwards climbed a new route, on sight, to the right of Left Wall called Resurrection, graded E4 6a. The description in the guide mentions four points of aid (actually two) used on the route. The route was climbed on sight placing gear on the lead without prior inspection, as the ethics of the day required. Rowland never repeated any route, and on this route a second ascent it could easily have been done free, as it later was by other climbers. How times have changed. Top rope practice, pre-placed gear etc. But the end product is the enjoyment of the climb and what you leave behind.
(Photo screenshots from An Oak Creek Film, The Left Wall of Cenotaph Corner, 1976)
    •    Instagram 888: US Patent 4,082,241 April 4, 1978, John Brent Burkey.
    •    Instagram 889: John Brent Burkey (USA) Chock for Mountain Climbing, 1976.
    •    Instagram 889 bis: John Brent Burkey (USA) Chock for Mountain Climbing, 1976. (Photo & collection Marty Karabin).
Stéphane