Camelback Mountain
Route: The Monk’s Chin
Rating: C2 5.3 (Aid route)
FA: 1981 Richard Leonard, Dan Knowles
Route: The Monk’s Chin
Rating: C2 5.3 (Aid route)
FA: 1981 Richard Leonard, Dan Knowles
When I first started climbing, my friends and I were not into the route leads yet due to the only routes being available all had extreme runouts between the bolts. No rock gyms yet or sport routes. Camelback Mtn was right in town and we were enjoying, Sewrey’s roof (Aid), Forrest Roof (Aid), and at the time, the Monk’s Chin was a mystery route.
Looking back into the guidebooks:
Phoenix Rock, Waugh c.1987 - The guidebook does not mention the route at all. I am not sure why Jim didn’t include it in his guidebook where the route FA was 1981, Guidebook publication is 1987.
Marty Map, Karabin c.1992 - The Marty map shows the first listing for this route. Through research I came across a old route that was unlisted named the Pregnant Lizard. So I assumed the aid route on the Monk that went out the roof was the “Pregnant Lizard.”
Phoenix Rock II, Opland c.1996 - The Guidebook renames the route as “Not! Pregnant Lizard.” Opland scolds the Marty map stating that the Pregnant lizard route is over by Pedricks Chimney. But at the same time Opland does not include the Pregnant Lizard route in his guidebook.
Marty Notes - Bolt replacement Monk - Lists route as “Unknown Aid Route.” July 2000 MK and Harvey replaced lower bolts on the route. November 2000 replaced the bolts on the roof.
Marty Map, Karabin c.2003 - Through research I heard that Dana Hollister may have bolted the route and got the First Ascent. So then the name of the route became “Dana’s Roof”
Then it was some time between 2003 and 2008, that the official first ascent party came forward and proved it with these photos. The name of the route is officially “The Monk’s Chin.”
Marty Map, Karabin c.2008 - The route is named “The Monk’s Chin.”
Looking back into the guidebooks:
Phoenix Rock, Waugh c.1987 - The guidebook does not mention the route at all. I am not sure why Jim didn’t include it in his guidebook where the route FA was 1981, Guidebook publication is 1987.
Marty Map, Karabin c.1992 - The Marty map shows the first listing for this route. Through research I came across a old route that was unlisted named the Pregnant Lizard. So I assumed the aid route on the Monk that went out the roof was the “Pregnant Lizard.”
Phoenix Rock II, Opland c.1996 - The Guidebook renames the route as “Not! Pregnant Lizard.” Opland scolds the Marty map stating that the Pregnant lizard route is over by Pedricks Chimney. But at the same time Opland does not include the Pregnant Lizard route in his guidebook.
Marty Notes - Bolt replacement Monk - Lists route as “Unknown Aid Route.” July 2000 MK and Harvey replaced lower bolts on the route. November 2000 replaced the bolts on the roof.
Marty Map, Karabin c.2003 - Through research I heard that Dana Hollister may have bolted the route and got the First Ascent. So then the name of the route became “Dana’s Roof”
Then it was some time between 2003 and 2008, that the official first ascent party came forward and proved it with these photos. The name of the route is officially “The Monk’s Chin.”
Marty Map, Karabin c.2008 - The route is named “The Monk’s Chin.”
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Over time I got to know this route really well. The biggest fear, besides the rock being soft mudstone, was the fist move was stepping out over a 8’ drop while standing onto a etrier that was hooked on a shallow pocket. The second move got me to the bolt hanger. The route has 12 bolts overall. After a dozen leads on this route I prepared for my speed ascent of climbing the route in under 5 minutes. I added a special bolt made for a aid wire at the start, to eliminate the chance of injury if the hook move failed. But when I came back to the route, somebody had chopped off the bolt. The only reason that hook move remains at the start, is to try to keep people off of the route. These days people stick clip the bolt anyways and the unnecessary hook remains at home in the storage.
Taking a look at the original bolts and hangers. Some of the bolts are only a 1/4” thick and threaded as well, by 1/2” length. The bolt casing for that bolt is 7/8” in length.
Taking a look at the original bolts and hangers. Some of the bolts are only a 1/4” thick and threaded as well, by 1/2” length. The bolt casing for that bolt is 7/8” in length.
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I always cringed when I was under the roof on the Monk’s Chin route because I am totally being supported buy the bolt hanger while hanging on aid on webbing. I can see the big drop under me. I can now see the most of the parking lot down there below. The wind is lightly blowing, and anytime I move, the carabiner turning on the rusty bolt hanger would make a grinding squeak sound. I can still remember perfectly that sound today. Below I show the roof bolts lineup as they originally were. Once the climber gets to the roof, notes show: First roof bolt is a small carabiner hole Leeper hanger 3/8 bolt, Second roof bolt is SMC hanger 3/8 bolt, Third roof bolt is 1/4” Leeper with casing, Fourth roof bolt is Leeper hanger 3/8 bolt.
The Third roof bolt 1/4” Leeper hanger with casing, the bolt was being fistey on the replacement so I clipped on my funkness device (wire) to the hammer and with only one outward thrust, that hanger broke away completely from the wall. I can’t believe how many times I put my full trust into that bolt holding, and to see later how little it was actually attached to the rock. My palms are now sweating. I love it!!