Karabin Climbing Museum
  • Home
  • Museum
  • MK Productions
  • MARTY ART
  • Sage

Chouinard
​- harnesses -


Chouinard 1972 catalog

Note: The opening paragraph is interesting. "Chouinard and others are positively opposed to harnesses and such contraptions, but as a consession to Frost (who has sold out to British technocracy) the Whillans Sit Harness is herein offered to American climbers."

So Yvon Chouinard and other allies were opposed to Tom Frost insisting on climbers wearing a harness that had leg loops, other than just wrapping two inches wide webbing around your waist as the climbers only main safety system? This statement alone makes Tom Frost a total hero of climbing in todays climbing harness world. 

- The information written in the Chouinard 1972 catalog mentions that the Whillans Sit harness has a "blue crouch strap." Also is mentioned is the harness has two individual waist buckles. 
- The harness has sewn equipment loops that the end user can tie perlon cord onto to make gear loops for the harness.
​- I am guessing that this first harness that Chouinard is selling does not have a Chouinard or GPIW label sewn onto it.
Picture
Picture

Chouinard 1975 catalog. 
​- The catalog now is titling the harness the "GPIW/Whillans Sitharness. I am not sure if this is Whillans first design of the harness or possibly Chouinard made a few changes. 

- The harness has a Chouinard/GPIW label sewn to it. 
Picture

1975 Chouinard/GPIW/Whillans Troll Sitharness
- Donated by Manuel Rangel
​- Black Troll label
- Two individual waist strap buckles
​- Climber only ties into harness waist loop (one point)
Picture
Picture

Picture
Picture

What I find unusual about this 1975 Sit harness design is that the waist strap can be fully removed from the waist buckle, but then the gear loop strap is still tied in. So when putting on the harness the climber needs to make sure they are stepping within the harness and gear loop when putting on the harness.
​- 4 tie in loops for the gear loops to be tied to.
Picture
Picture

Comparison on harness crotch loop.
1975 Chouinard Whillans on top and later Whillans harness models on bottom. Chouinard is sewn in on both ends of the crotch loop. Later Whillans models the crotch loop is only sewn in on one end. 
Picture
Picture

Two other versions of the 1975 - 1979 Troll Whillans GPIW Chouinard harness
Picture
Picture

Chouinard 1978 catalog

Sitharness is changed to two words...
​"Sit Harness"

Picture

In 1980 Chouinard no longer is offereing the Troll Whillans Sit harnesses and now has created their own design of climbing harnesses. 

While we are still on the Troll Whillans harnesses subject.... 1981 Whillans catalog?

- The Whillans harness designs started in 1970.

​- The harness design has changed to requiring three tie in points for the climbing rope, over the one point Chouinard Whillans harness model.

- Harness now has 5 tie in points for the gear loops. This Troll Whillans catalog shows two metal gear loop tie in points and three fabric loops that have metal crimps attached. 

- Harness now has only one metal waist strap buckle. 

- Harness waist strap includes two sewn in hammer holster options. 

- Harness straps are in two different colors.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture

Troll Whillans Sit Harness (Late 1970s early 1980s?)
- Webbing straps all white
- 5 gear loop tie in points all metal loops
- "Important", double back buckle label sewn on.
Picture
Picture

Troll Whillans Sit Harness (late 1970s early 1980s?)
- Two color strap colors
- 5 metal loops for gear loop tie ins
- Donated by Tom Sintros
Picture
Picture
Picture

Different Troll Whillans label
Picture

Troll Whillans Sit Harness
- Donated by Art McCarthy

Picture
Picture

1980 Chouinard Chest harness and Sit harness
- Note: On the early 1980s Chouinard catalogs, the photos are in black and white so not sure if other harness strap colors were used. The 1986 Chouinard catalog shows that the strap colors are yellow and green.
Picture
Picture

1983 Chouinard Adjustable Chest harness and Adjustable Sit harness
- Also showing the Chouinard tie-in loop sold seperately
​- Harness webbing is white, harness straps are yellow and green.
Picture
Picture

1984 Chouinard Culp Alpine harness
Picture

Chouinard 1984 Zero Point harness
Picture

Chouinard 1986 Bod harness
- Harness waist belt sewing, 10 stitches left and 6 stitches right.
Picture

Chouinard 1986 catalog shows that now the webbing tie in loop is stitched on the Adjustable Sit harness
Picture

Chouinard 1987 Alpine Bod harness
​- No gear loops

Picture

Chouinard 1987 Bod harness
​-
 Harness waist belt sewing, 6 stitches left and 6 stitches right.
- Donated by Mark Trainor
Picture
Picture

Picture
Picture

Chouinard 1988 Adjustable Chest harness and Adjustable Sit harness
​- Straps are colored black
​- Non adjustable Sit harness discontinued
Picture
Picture

Chouinard 1988 Bod Escalade harness
- Sewn webbing loop
- Paterened design on waist belt
- Red gear loops tied to bottom of waist belt.
Picture

Chouinard 1989 Bod Escalade harness
- Sewn webbing loop
- Paterened design on waist belt
- Black gear loops sewn to top of waist belt.
Picture

Chouinard Alpine Bod harness
​- No gear loops
​- New two plate buckle

Picture

Chouinard 1989 Bod harness
- Red gear loops tied to top of waist belt
- New two plate buckle
​- Donated by Mark Trainor
Picture
Picture

Picture
Picture

Comparing the 1987 and 1989 Chouinard Bod harnesses
- Single plate buckle (1987) and double plate buckle (1989)
Picture
Picture

Correcting the old Karabin Museum Chouinard harness board.....

Interesting that the 1990 Chouinard/Black Diamond Bod Escalade harness on the display board has the older 1988 waist buckle. The harness has no gear loops. The leg loops now have the 1990 Black Diamond  purple pattern added to them. The Chouinard sewn labels are black in color showing Black Diamond. I purchased this harness at the AZ Hiking Shack back in the day and wore it for many years so I know it is not a prototype or something. Originally I believe the harness did have the gear loops attached.
​

Picture

.............................................................................................

December 1989 the Chouinard company officially becomes the Black Diamond company. I believe that the leftover stock climbing parts and pieces were sewn together to sell the product off, and to seperate the items from the past Chouinard sold products, a black Chouinard label was created and sewn onto the items. Even when Black Diamond was coming out with their newer designed products, they still added a black sewn label that had the Chouinard "C" in diamond mark on it. Even in 1993 in the catalogs the Black Chouinard sewn label is still with the newer products. Eventually Black Diamond came up with newer labels for their product showing the Black Diamond name. 

Note: So if you have a Chouinard fabric product that has a black Chouinard label sewn onto it, that is a Black Diamond product. On the metal goods the Chouinard product name was still there, but a Diamond mark within brackets was added to the Chouinard products showing it is a Black Diamond product. 

Black Diamond 1990 Bod Escalade harness
Picture

The new 1990 Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness is now purple in color
Picture

- The 1990 Black Diamond Adjustable Sit harness and Adjustable Chest harness still is the same as the past Chouinard product, but they changed back to the straps being green and yellow color and not black.

The 1990 Black Diamond Bod harness is the same as the past Chouinard Bod harness.

1990 Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness.

- Large black "C" in diamond label.
- Extra sewn on flap on waistbelt for further tucking the waistbelt tail into. In the photo the gear loop is mistied into the waistbelt flap.
Picture

Black Diamond 1990 Adjustable Sit harness.

- Black Chouinard label. 
- Black harness straps.

Picture

- In 1991 Black Diamond created a new harness named the X Harness.
​- The Black Diamond Bod harness is the same as the past Chouinard Bod harness, but now the two plate buckle is dark red in color. Harness available now in black or purple color.
- The Alpine Bod harness is available in black or purple color.
- The Adjustable Chest and Adjustable Sit harness no longer have the Chouinard label sewn onto them.


- In 1992 Black Diamond introduces a new harnes named the Double XX Harness, specifically made for women.
- The Adjustable Chest harness and Adjustable Sit harness were discontinued and replaced by the Vario harness and Vario Chest harness.

- In 1993 Black Diamond introduces the Mentor Harness. 
​- In 1993 Black Diamond intrioduces the Wixard Harness.

  • Home
  • Museum
  • MK Productions
  • MARTY ART
  • Sage