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Fall 1957 we pushed the Nose Route higher up and bad things started to happen over and over. Warren took a big fall which caused a bad rope burn on his left hand. I took a good fall from one of my bolt hangers breaking. Already at that time I was telling Warren that I was not into the route as much as when I started. Our fixed ropes were getting chewed through from the Valley weather. My beard got stuck in my prusik. I was quoting the Bible a lot more.
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We used a Windlass winch we named the Dolt Winch to haul up the cart which was more work than it was worth, but it was working. Mark Powell took a big fall while climbing another route in Yosemite which messed up his ankle pretty bad.
While at camp 4 I told Warren I am going to learn to fly… and Warren got concerned with my craziness. We gave the route a break. |
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The three of us returned to the Nose Route around Easter 1958 and pushed the route to Boot Flake. We used my DOLDT hangers on the section that led to Boot Flake. Warren suddenly took a big fall when one of my special adjustable bong pitons cut loose. Hearing the sound of the rope abruptly catching him really got me scared. I could not stop quoting the Bible and was very very scared. I wanted off the route ASAP.
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And the Dolt logo was born. Since the items were coming from my Dolt shop I named the catalog the Dolt Hut. The Dolt created items at that time were: my new leather hammer holster, a full set of angle pitons, and bolt hole scrapers that removed the drill dust from bolt holes previous to installing the bolts. I also sold other manufacturers gear and created a catalog.
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My 1958 catalog shows my new line of Ringless Angle pitons which I was psyched to make. I wanted the pitons to be able to fit the cracks within the cracks perfect size, so they varied in 1/16 size increments. I welded the hammer ends of the pitons so the angle body would not collapse under the blows of the hammer and could be used over and over. I also put a coating on the pitons so they would not rust.
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- (Narrator)
In 1959 Bill was having a lot of fun being fully recognized as a mountaineer as all of the climbers were putting up amazing first ascents in Yosemite. You can see how happy Bill is in this photo being amongst the bold super climbers. Bill and Toms friendship grew and Tom spent a lot of time visiting Bill in his shop. Yvon Chouinard continued to create more pitons and Bill had a great respect for Yvon for being a fellow gear craftsman. Bill felt a great friendship was being developed between Bill, Tom and Yvon. |