A conversation with Gustav Bekker. June 2022 gear donation to the Karabin Climbing Museum.
Gus, 6-11-2022
Two boxes received!!!
Let me start by saying wow!! Surprise!!!
Even though I have this one and that one and the other one, I now need to switch out what I already have with yours since all of the gear you sent me is in A+ mint condition. OMG, it is such a pleasure to see what climbing gear looked like when it was first made and given to the stores.
Secondary, which should be first, ....is THANK YOU!!!!!
Hmmm let's see if I can get that text larger..... THANKKKKK YOUUUUU!!!!!
This is a great collection of awesome climbing gear items!! Almost every item in this donation is different. Before I get into the many questions I want to ask you I think the most important is, which I will love to add to my museum website,
"What is the story on you and these fantastic climbing gear items you just donated to the museum?"
:)
Marty
Two boxes received!!!
Let me start by saying wow!! Surprise!!!
Even though I have this one and that one and the other one, I now need to switch out what I already have with yours since all of the gear you sent me is in A+ mint condition. OMG, it is such a pleasure to see what climbing gear looked like when it was first made and given to the stores.
Secondary, which should be first, ....is THANK YOU!!!!!
Hmmm let's see if I can get that text larger..... THANKKKKK YOUUUUU!!!!!
This is a great collection of awesome climbing gear items!! Almost every item in this donation is different. Before I get into the many questions I want to ask you I think the most important is, which I will love to add to my museum website,
"What is the story on you and these fantastic climbing gear items you just donated to the museum?"
:)
Marty
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Hi Marty, 6-12-2022
I can't take much credit for the climbing hardware except that I knew about your climbing museum and knew this stuff would be valuable to you.
The story is that my good friend worked for REI for over 25 years in the Quality Assurance department in Seattle. The Q & A lab is where they tested all the gear that REI would sell. REI did not want to sell someone a biner, for example, until they made sure it passed breaking strength tests - this even though the manufacturer had already certified its gear with the national testing labs and in Europe. The lab of course also tested things like climbing ropes, tents, sleeping bags, stoves, etc., it was a busy and fun place to work.
Well, if you are John Long, for example, and you have a new cam you want to produce and sell to REI then you had to send REI samples to test. So the lab would get 2-3 or more of each item and test and/or break them in the lab. Those items that broke or failed the test got sent to the trash. What was leftover would be a shiny new prototype that had not been tested which would go into a random plastic bin. Over the years, these extras or spares that were never tested started to fill several bins that just sat on a shelf for 20 plus years.
So one day as REI was moving the lab from one building to another my friend realized they had these bins of vintage, new, prototype climbing gear and he somehow remembered me and asked if I wanted the bins. I think he knew that I was in contact with you, I'm sure I mentioned you to him, so that is how he thought about me. I of course said, "yes" to taking the bins from him and they have been in my basement now for some 10 years or more untouched till now. I think you remember I sent you another box about 6-7 years ago of some stuff, including two of the Long cams.
I have kept a few dozen items for myself that I will eventually donate to the museum but for now they will go on display in my man cave. These are some really unique items that I know very few people have seen.
Well there is the story.
Cheers my good friend.
I can't take much credit for the climbing hardware except that I knew about your climbing museum and knew this stuff would be valuable to you.
The story is that my good friend worked for REI for over 25 years in the Quality Assurance department in Seattle. The Q & A lab is where they tested all the gear that REI would sell. REI did not want to sell someone a biner, for example, until they made sure it passed breaking strength tests - this even though the manufacturer had already certified its gear with the national testing labs and in Europe. The lab of course also tested things like climbing ropes, tents, sleeping bags, stoves, etc., it was a busy and fun place to work.
Well, if you are John Long, for example, and you have a new cam you want to produce and sell to REI then you had to send REI samples to test. So the lab would get 2-3 or more of each item and test and/or break them in the lab. Those items that broke or failed the test got sent to the trash. What was leftover would be a shiny new prototype that had not been tested which would go into a random plastic bin. Over the years, these extras or spares that were never tested started to fill several bins that just sat on a shelf for 20 plus years.
So one day as REI was moving the lab from one building to another my friend realized they had these bins of vintage, new, prototype climbing gear and he somehow remembered me and asked if I wanted the bins. I think he knew that I was in contact with you, I'm sure I mentioned you to him, so that is how he thought about me. I of course said, "yes" to taking the bins from him and they have been in my basement now for some 10 years or more untouched till now. I think you remember I sent you another box about 6-7 years ago of some stuff, including two of the Long cams.
I have kept a few dozen items for myself that I will eventually donate to the museum but for now they will go on display in my man cave. These are some really unique items that I know very few people have seen.
Well there is the story.
Cheers my good friend.
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Gus, 6-12-2022
That is a great story!!! Thank you so much for thinking about me in this REI process. Looking back at the files the last batch of gear you sent to me was September 2012. One of the LONG cam device samples you gave me in 2012 I sent to Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum in Corsica. I have bumped in to you many times at the Outdoor Retailers Shows, but I remember you most since you and I were with Jeff Lowe giving him a hug a few months before he passed. I was looking at you in silence and you were looking at me in silence as we both were standing next to Jeff, and seeing him in the condition he presently was in. He spoke to us through a computer and I do remember him somewhat being silly with sharing a few laughable comments. I was in the presence of greatness, but as I walked away it was hard to hold the tears in.
A few questions about the donated gear if possibly you can answer them.
That is a great story!!! Thank you so much for thinking about me in this REI process. Looking back at the files the last batch of gear you sent to me was September 2012. One of the LONG cam device samples you gave me in 2012 I sent to Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum in Corsica. I have bumped in to you many times at the Outdoor Retailers Shows, but I remember you most since you and I were with Jeff Lowe giving him a hug a few months before he passed. I was looking at you in silence and you were looking at me in silence as we both were standing next to Jeff, and seeing him in the condition he presently was in. He spoke to us through a computer and I do remember him somewhat being silly with sharing a few laughable comments. I was in the presence of greatness, but as I walked away it was hard to hold the tears in.
A few questions about the donated gear if possibly you can answer them.
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I didn't know that Salewa made two different tube thicknesses on their ice screws. I have held hundreds of these screws and now I come across this other size? Wow cool!!!
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The black color ice screw piton is unmarked. Any idea what company or who may have created it?
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The Salewa ice screw with handle is totally awesome!!! I have the longer version of this one but the one you sent is marked Salewa/GAB, which is even more awesome!!!!
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The two Camp Bolo nuts you sent are the very first generation which did not have a company name anywhere on the items. I looked at the other Camp Bolos I have and noticed that the two you sent are the ones I was missing from the overall set. It was a great realization for sure! But then I looked at the photos of the gear you sent to me in 2012 and it was the other four Camp Bolo nuts. So this overall set actually all came from you. Sending you a photo of the second generation Bolo set that has the company name on the item swags.
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The NAMI ice piton screw you sent is great!! I have the same one but it is unmarked. I thought it was a LOWE prototype item but now yours reveals the makers name..... kinda. When looking at this NAMI design it looks very similar to the LOWE design. Do you know anything about the NAMI mfg name? Does NAMI have anything to do with LOWE?
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The LONG cams are wonderful!!!! I remember being at the Outdoor Retailers Show where for that summer show John was there with a company partner named Michael that were showing their new camming devices. On the second of the 4 day show John allowed me to purchase one LONG cam for the museum for $100. But on the last day of the show John insisted that he must have his cam back and he returned the monies to me. Yes I was bummed out but I did my best to preserve the history. I did pick up a LONG climbing gear brochure which I still have, along with 2 different LONG stickers. I mentioned to John that his two lobe LONG cam is very much close to a cam design that was already made called a Buddie cam from Quest Technology in Canada. He said he never heard of that device so I drew an exact copy of the Buddie cam with dimensions and all and sent it to him. After that the LONG cam device was never offered to the public. I don't think my drawing stopped his cams from going forward. I think the chosen material the lobes were made of may have been brittle compared to all of the other cams that were presently being sold on the market. I am totally psyched these LONG cams surfaced, and they are now in museums being preserved for future climbers to ponder.
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Wow a lot of great stuff in this donation!!!!!!
:)
Marty
:)
Marty
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From Gus 6-13-2022
Hi Marty,
Marty meet Steve. Steve can probably answer your questions better than I can on the gear. That black ice screw sort of reminds me of the Titanium screws made in Russia, it doesn't look like Ti though in the picture.
Steve is my friend from REI who worked in the Q & A lab, he has a ton of knowledge on climbing gear esp. this stuff. I will be interested in what Steve has to share with you on this gear.
I'm happy it has found a great home with you and the museum.
Hi Marty,
Marty meet Steve. Steve can probably answer your questions better than I can on the gear. That black ice screw sort of reminds me of the Titanium screws made in Russia, it doesn't look like Ti though in the picture.
Steve is my friend from REI who worked in the Q & A lab, he has a ton of knowledge on climbing gear esp. this stuff. I will be interested in what Steve has to share with you on this gear.
I'm happy it has found a great home with you and the museum.
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From Steve Nagode 6-13-2022
Hi Marty,
If you can send me the message with the photos, I may be able to help you out with some of your questions.
Steve
Hi Marty,
If you can send me the message with the photos, I may be able to help you out with some of your questions.
Steve
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From Marty 6-14-2022
Greetings Steve, Greetings Gus,
Mainly two questions on the items overall.
The black color ice screw piton is unmarked. Any idea what company or who may have created it?
The NAMI ice piton screw you sent is great!! I have the same one but it is unmarked. I thought it was a LOWE prototype item but now yours reveals the makers name..... kinda. When looking at this NAMI design it looks very similar to the LOWE design. Do you know anything about the NAMI mfg name? Does NAMI have anything to do with LOWE?
Any info will be awesome to include with the items!!
Thank you!
:)
Marty
Greetings Steve, Greetings Gus,
Mainly two questions on the items overall.
The black color ice screw piton is unmarked. Any idea what company or who may have created it?
The NAMI ice piton screw you sent is great!! I have the same one but it is unmarked. I thought it was a LOWE prototype item but now yours reveals the makers name..... kinda. When looking at this NAMI design it looks very similar to the LOWE design. Do you know anything about the NAMI mfg name? Does NAMI have anything to do with LOWE?
Any info will be awesome to include with the items!!
Thank you!
:)
Marty
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From Steve to Jim. 6-14-2022
Hi Jim. A couple years ago we donated a box of old gear to a climbing gear collector in CO. He is asking me specifically about a couple ice screws and would like to know the manufacturer. Any chance you could look up the old ice screw reports for some clues?. Specifically he is looking at a black tubular screw, and a screw with the letters NAMI on it
Hi Jim. A couple years ago we donated a box of old gear to a climbing gear collector in CO. He is asking me specifically about a couple ice screws and would like to know the manufacturer. Any chance you could look up the old ice screw reports for some clues?. Specifically he is looking at a black tubular screw, and a screw with the letters NAMI on it
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From Jim Hollenbeck 6-14-2022
Hi Steve,
I’m not having much luck finding info on those, especially since they would be old enough tests that there would be no pictures. Also, all of our paper documents (old handwritten reports and logs) are in offsite storage someplace with the archive team so they can be digitized.
I did find two old reports for screws that are black in color, so maybe they are the right reports?
Also, I found an entry in the super old log for an “Avue Ice Hog by Nami”, but unfortunately the accompanying report for that one is missing. It would suggest the Nami screw might be a re-branded Avue. (Be prepared when you Google Avue Ice Hog by Nami; it is now safe-search territory!).
Hope all is well,
Jim
Hi Steve,
I’m not having much luck finding info on those, especially since they would be old enough tests that there would be no pictures. Also, all of our paper documents (old handwritten reports and logs) are in offsite storage someplace with the archive team so they can be digitized.
I did find two old reports for screws that are black in color, so maybe they are the right reports?
Also, I found an entry in the super old log for an “Avue Ice Hog by Nami”, but unfortunately the accompanying report for that one is missing. It would suggest the Nami screw might be a re-branded Avue. (Be prepared when you Google Avue Ice Hog by Nami; it is now safe-search territory!).
Hope all is well,
Jim
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From Marty 6-15-2022
Steve,
I appreciate you looking into those ice screw items!!! No rush for the info and when more info surfaces I will continue to add it to the Karabin Museum.
It's cool that the Nami has a title now!!!!
Steve,
I appreciate you looking into those ice screw items!!! No rush for the info and when more info surfaces I will continue to add it to the Karabin Museum.
It's cool that the Nami has a title now!!!!
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Gear donations to the Karabin Climbing Museum 2012
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