Nut Tools - History
For many years now Stephane Pennequin and I have been searching for the first company or person to offer a created nut tool product to the public. This is where the history list is presently today.
I always wondered why the climbing companies that created nuts didn’t also create a nut tool to assist in removing the placed and jammed nuts. Troll, Clog, Dolt, Chouinard, etc. I believe it is because during that 1960s time, climbers were still using pitons so the climbers were also carrying a hammer with them. The newer hammers were being modified having a longer pick on them which can be used to break free the jammed nuts.
For many years now Stephane Pennequin and I have been searching for the first company or person to offer a created nut tool product to the public. This is where the history list is presently today.
I always wondered why the climbing companies that created nuts didn’t also create a nut tool to assist in removing the placed and jammed nuts. Troll, Clog, Dolt, Chouinard, etc. I believe it is because during that 1960s time, climbers were still using pitons so the climbers were also carrying a hammer with them. The newer hammers were being modified having a longer pick on them which can be used to break free the jammed nuts.
- Chouinard - Long Dong Piton (1965)
The first mention of a gadget being used as a nut tool is in the Chouinard 1968 catalog. Yes in the paragraph wordage Chouinard mentions that it may be useful to give the nut a extra tap to better seat it, but the next mention is: “In which case a long horizontal piton will be helpful in retrieving it.” Since this mention of the long horizontal piton does not also mention “in conjunction” with a hammer, so far Chouinard gets the first nut tool created position. At the bottom of the Chouinard paragraph is a mention of a Royal Robbins article in Summit magazine May 1967. In that article is wonderful history of the first nuts being made, but there is no mention of a tool being used to extract the nuts from their jammed placement. Royal writes: "to give the nuts a upward yank to break them free." In the Chouinard 1972 catalog, there is wordage for the Chouinard Alpine hammer and the Chouinard Crag hammer of “this hammer is great for removing chocks.”
Stephane is pushing the date back from 1968 to 1965 showing when the first Long Dong piton first came available.
The first mention of a gadget being used as a nut tool is in the Chouinard 1968 catalog. Yes in the paragraph wordage Chouinard mentions that it may be useful to give the nut a extra tap to better seat it, but the next mention is: “In which case a long horizontal piton will be helpful in retrieving it.” Since this mention of the long horizontal piton does not also mention “in conjunction” with a hammer, so far Chouinard gets the first nut tool created position. At the bottom of the Chouinard paragraph is a mention of a Royal Robbins article in Summit magazine May 1967. In that article is wonderful history of the first nuts being made, but there is no mention of a tool being used to extract the nuts from their jammed placement. Royal writes: "to give the nuts a upward yank to break them free." In the Chouinard 1972 catalog, there is wordage for the Chouinard Alpine hammer and the Chouinard Crag hammer of “this hammer is great for removing chocks.”
Stephane is pushing the date back from 1968 to 1965 showing when the first Long Dong piton first came available.
Early 1970s climbers were making homemade nut tools out of tent pegs and shelf brackets.
Stephane Pennequin photo, “Cheesmond’s gear”
Stephane Pennequin photo, “Cheesmond’s gear”
- The Chock Wrench (6/1974)
Shown in an article in Summit magazine June 1974. Made of plastic. The article includes pictures and a description of the Chock Wrench, but does not mention of how a climber can obtain one of the Chock Wrenches. Although there is a Chock Wrench presently in the Karabin Museum, a second one has yet to be found so this item may have not been produced any further, than just a mention in an article.
Shown in an article in Summit magazine June 1974. Made of plastic. The article includes pictures and a description of the Chock Wrench, but does not mention of how a climber can obtain one of the Chock Wrenches. Although there is a Chock Wrench presently in the Karabin Museum, a second one has yet to be found so this item may have not been produced any further, than just a mention in an article.
- Lowe Alpine Systems - LAS Hammer (Fall 1974)
Lowe Alpine Systems Fall 1974 Price List
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LAS catalog 1976
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- The Innovative Climbers Wrench (12/1974)
This is an article in Summit Magazine December 1974 that mocks the Climbers Wrench. The article shows how a simple shelf bracket can be used as a nut tool and will be better than the chock wrench. This is not a product that was created and offered for sale to the public as a nut tool, but this article may be why so many climbers have actually used home modified shelf brackets as their nut tool.
This is an article in Summit Magazine December 1974 that mocks the Climbers Wrench. The article shows how a simple shelf bracket can be used as a nut tool and will be better than the chock wrench. This is not a product that was created and offered for sale to the public as a nut tool, but this article may be why so many climbers have actually used home modified shelf brackets as their nut tool.
- Leeper - Clean Hooker (Later 1974)
- Leeper - Slightly Smutty Hooker (Later 1974)
Ed Leeper created two nut tools which show up in drawings in a book called the “Climbers Sourcebook” dated 1976. This book shows drawings of the gear that was already available being sold on the market at that time. In Ed Leepers 1982 catalog it is written that Ed created in 1975 the Hooker nut tool which is a nut tool that has four holes. To me this shows that the two nut tools that Ed first created came out sometime in 1974, since the Climbers Sourcebook didn’t have any drawing of that specific Hooker nut tool, instead showed what was already being sold and common.
- Leeper - Slightly Smutty Hooker (Later 1974)
Ed Leeper created two nut tools which show up in drawings in a book called the “Climbers Sourcebook” dated 1976. This book shows drawings of the gear that was already available being sold on the market at that time. In Ed Leepers 1982 catalog it is written that Ed created in 1975 the Hooker nut tool which is a nut tool that has four holes. To me this shows that the two nut tools that Ed first created came out sometime in 1974, since the Climbers Sourcebook didn’t have any drawing of that specific Hooker nut tool, instead showed what was already being sold and common.
- Leeper - Hooker (1975)
Made by Ed Leeper assisted by Bob Culp. Four hole design.
First generation has capital "LEEPER" mark. Three cuts on nut tool end.
Made by Ed Leeper assisted by Bob Culp. Four hole design.
First generation has capital "LEEPER" mark. Three cuts on nut tool end.
- Dolt - Nutcracker (5/1975)
Advertised in Summit magazine May 1975. Dolt nut tools made by Don Lauria and Ken Boche.
Made of Star Dolt Super Steel, also 20 were made of titanium.
Advertised in Summit magazine May 1975. Dolt nut tools made by Don Lauria and Ken Boche.
Made of Star Dolt Super Steel, also 20 were made of titanium.
- Touchstone Designs - Nutscratcher (2/1976)
Advertised in Off Belay magazine February 1976.
Advertised in Off Belay magazine February 1976.
- Ruhl Tool (1977)
First patented nut tool
Made by Gary Ruhl, Leuk and Anderson
Marketed by Royal Robbins
First patented nut tool
Made by Gary Ruhl, Leuk and Anderson
Marketed by Royal Robbins
- Forrest - Bam Nut (1977)
Made by Bill Forrest
Can be used as a Nut Tool, a Chock, a Hammer, a Cliffhanger and a Quickdraw
Note: Forrest did produce a Nut Hammer in 1974 (Full size hammer).
Made by Bill Forrest
Can be used as a Nut Tool, a Chock, a Hammer, a Cliffhanger and a Quickdraw
Note: Forrest did produce a Nut Hammer in 1974 (Full size hammer).
- Chouinard - Super Long Dong (1977)
Designed by Yvon Chouinard, made by CAMP Italy
First generation has CAMP over INTERALP mark. The metal is pitted on the overall nut tool piton.
Designed by Yvon Chouinard, made by CAMP Italy
First generation has CAMP over INTERALP mark. The metal is pitted on the overall nut tool piton.
- Summit "Gadger" Chock Tool (1978)
Wire style nut tool listed as a chock removal tool. Shown in the Kalmar Trading Corporation 1978 catalog. Not sure when the catalog was printed possibly fall 1977 to have ready for the 1978 season.
Wire style nut tool listed as a chock removal tool. Shown in the Kalmar Trading Corporation 1978 catalog. Not sure when the catalog was printed possibly fall 1977 to have ready for the 1978 season.
- Forrest - Crag Dagger (1980)
Made by Bill Forrest
Made by Bill Forrest
- Forrest - Wire nut tool (1983)
Made by Bill Forrest
Made by Bill Forrest
Showing the three Forrest nut tools - Stephane Pennequin photo
And the list continues .............
- Wild Country - Nut Key (1983)
- Chouinard - Nut Pick (1985)
- Wild Country - Nut Key (1983)
- Chouinard - Nut Pick (1985)