Climbing Holds History - 1980's
What I am searching for is the answer to, “What company was first to manufacture climbing holds that were available for sale to the overall public?” Presently at this date: 3/2025, this is what the history is showing….. First climbing holds - 1st - Entre Prises (France) 1985. - 2nd - Powroll The Wall (USA) 1986/ roks (1987) - 3rd - Camp logo hold (EP made for Italy company) August 1986. - 4th - Metolius (USA) 1987 (hangboard)/ 1988 (Holds) - 5th - Sport Climbing Systems (USA) 1988 - 6th - Vertical Concepts (USA) 1988 First Hangboard - Entre Prises (France) 1986. - Metolius (USA) April 1987. First Rock Gym - 1st - Vertical Club - (USA, Seattle WA) 1987. - 2nd - Portland Rock Gym - (USA, Portland OR) early 1988. - 3rd - Boston Rock Gym USA - August 1989 - Joe Rockheads (1st - Canada) June 1990. |
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I am sure when this wall was shown in Climbing magazine December 1985, it got many climbers ideas flowing. The problem was, “There were no climbing companies selling holds.
- Climbing magazine December 1985 - Four sided 12’ tall wall at Frank’s house. The two page story name is Training, “Pumping Wood” by Bob Murray, Photo by John Hayes. In the story there is no mention of any holds made of anything other than wood. The flowing ideas of that time were centered on wood. Even the final sentence is written: “If the climbing areas are swallowed by the blind maw of progress, climbing on wood may be all that remains of the sport of urban bouldering.” Notice - No Crash pad, not even a piece of carpet. |
#1 -
Entre Prises - (France)(First company to create climbing holds) In 1983 Francois Savigny founded Entre Prises. He came up with the idea of creating climbing holds of which he began selling to the public in 1985. Climbing panels he developed in 1986. These holds were offered in Europe, but had no USA distributor. Looking at the 1986 Camp catalog, the Entre Prises holds shown have no product number marks. So the earliest of the Entre Prises holds were unmarked. |
#2 -
Powroll, The Wall - 1986 - (First USA company to create climbing holds) In 1986 Kent Olmstead started making wood climbing holds and sold them to people that built their own wall. He named the company “The Wall,” under the incorporated name of Powroll. The holds were all wood blocks of varying sizes, but in 1987 Kent began creating resin climbing holds named “roks bouldering bloks.” Powroll The Wall advertisement - April 1986
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Powroll - "roks"
- November 1987 ad |
#3 -
Camp (Italy) - 1986 Entre Prises created a Camp logo climbing hold which is shown in the August 1986 Camp products catalog. Camp, made in Italy. Camp didn’t necessarily make the hold, but it is a company hold being sold to the public. So Camp is on the holds history list as being the third company overall to sell their climbing hold to the public. |
In this mid 1980s years there is some recorded holds history:
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#4 -
Metolius (USA) Chris Grover product information letter 2/17/1987 - Mentions “New product we’re excited about is the Simulator.” The magazine advertisement shows that the Simulator is available, April 1987. |
Metolius Simulator advertisement April 1987
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Dale Bard (Signed) - Climbing Magazine August 2003
Photo by: Kevin Worrall |
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Snowbird Utah (USA)
- June 7 - 12, 1988 - Comp director Jeff Lowe - Climbing wall is 115' The roof and triangle structures were built by FFKR Architects. It is made out of plywood reinforced with fiberglass resin. The wall panels and climbing holds were made by Sport Climbing Systems. Rock & Ice magazine article mentions that the climbing surface is made of fine garnet crystals that create the required surface friction. Kent Olmstead mentions that the garnet crystals were purplish in color, which the crystals were also added to the created hand holds making the holds somewhat purple. |
Snowbird Utah USA Championship announcement
- May 1988 - |
Rock climber Jeff Lowe, along with Dick Bass, the owner of the Snowbird ski resort, invited Goodwin to build the climbing wall for the world's first International Sport Climbing Championship held at Snowbird, Utah, United States, in 1988. Goodwin did not participate in the championship, serving instead as a commentator for CBS Sports.
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Dan Goodwin - 1988 Snowbird International Sport Climbing Championship.
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#6 -
Vertical Concepts (USA) - July 1988 - Kent Olmstead and Dale Bard Making climbing structures and holds |
NOTE: Passe Montagne in (Canada) mentions that they started creating climbing holds and walls in 1986. But with further research, Passe Montagne may have created a climbing wall and holds for their climbing adventure school, but there is no mention of their product being made for sale to the public. Passe Montagne in the later years did create really cool holds. Looking at climbing history of Canada, first rock gym to open in Canada is Joe Rockheads in Toronto Ontario in June 30, 1990. Presently I have not found any proof that Passe Montagne created climbing holds for sale to the overall public pre 1990.
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