Piotr Packowski contacted me September 2024 as he was finalizing a writing on John Middendorf's life. The conversation then went to Jean-Christophe Lafaille.
Piotr - Hello, I saw your article about John Middendorf. Can I use this photo for an article? Thank you very much Piotr ……………….. Marty - Yes you can. I miss John. ……………….. Piotr - Yes, I understand. Thank you very much. Is that your picture? I met him once at Camp 4. Good evening ……………….. Marty - Middendorf photo - Year 2000 Patagonia advertisement. John Middendorf on the Shield, El Capitan, Yosemite Photo by Beth Wald. - Wow the poem you wrote for JC Lafaille is beautiful. Can I add your poem to my website? I did meet him at one of the industry shows in the USA. I just so happened to have with me a magazine page photo of him to sign at that time. He seemed very soft spoken and kind, for such a strong willed climber. Maybe I can say that he lead with his heart, and his ego was secondary. “The forward push for the summit was in the heart, the footsteps left behind, was the ego.
Jean-Christophe Lafaille - Climbing magazine - December 1993/January 1994
……………….. Piotr - Hi, Thank you, Marty, for the info. Lafaille - I renovated his house in Chamonix (Vallorcine) in 2005 before he left for Makalu. Before he lived in Barberine near the Swiss border and we climbed together. For the poem no problem, but the current form in the "Climbing" nest not dorigine (layout). I’ll find it on my hard drive and send you back. It was translated by my American friend Larry Ware - student of John Harlin II and friend of Haston, Gary and the whole Leysin gang. I met him in Leysin when I was writing my first article on Harlin. I am in contact with his son John 3. ps. I saw your Ukrainian eggs. Do you know this country? I was born in Poland. A part of Ukraine was Poland before 1945. I spent 5 months in Ukraine last year for the Polish government. ……………….. Marty - Wow your article on John is wonderful. I dont speak French but my friend I work with does so he can translate it if it needs to be. My dad lived in Poland with his mom and dad where his dad also had USA citizenship. Somehow they were affiliated with the Ukraine, maybe lived near the border or something. During world war II The German soldiers were now living in the peoples residences 1 soldier per household and the soldiers did what they wanted to do with the people, I know my grandma was getting raped by the soldier. it was either give the sex or take the bullet. My grandfather kept returning to Poland and was able to get my dad to the USA, and then slightly later got my Grandma to the USA. So I am first born male in the family that was born in the USA. My mom was very big into creating Ukrainian eggs. She is a master artist with the eggs. I am the one in the family that kept the egg tradition going. Still make eggs to this day. ……………… Piotr - Very good for eggs. I will send you the text in Word, it is easier to translate with a translator. I still tinker and I added some photos. I send it to you tonight because I’m waiting for the answer of Simon Mentz for a photo of John from Australia. You can put the poem on whenever you want. Amicalement Piotr …………………………………………………