The Phoenix Rock Gym first opened its doors August 15, 1992. Zipping time back 30 years we find Paul Diefenderfer (Dief) climbing at one of his favorite crags, Pinnacle Peak. Dief is approached by a man who is asking the rock climbers on how much would they pay to climb at a indoor rock gym. The man was thinking of opening a climbing gym somewhere along the Salt River. Dief replied back saying $2.00 since that would calculate out correctly with having a one month membership. The guy thought that was absurd. At the same time Dief thought it would be weird to have a rock gym, I mean, who wants to climb indoors anyways? In 1991 Paul Diefenderfer went to San Francisco for a American Alpine Club meeting where the Access Fund split off from the AAC. While there, Sam Davidson took Dief to a climbing gym named City Rock in the San Francisco area. It was Dief personally climbing indoors at City Rock that gave Dief the vision to create his own rock gym in Arizona. So he partnered with friend Eric Ramsey and began building. Dief and Eric both contributed $10,000 each, which started the gym which was located 2810 S. Roosevelt road in Tempe.
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The Phoenix Rock Gym logo was designed and created by Eric Ramsey
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By 1993 the gym had 36 top ropes and there was 8000 square feet of climbing available. The bouldering area was simple “T-Shaped” flat walls which were used as a warm up area for the gym top ropes. Jim Waugh was the main course setter where Jim also started the Phoenix Rock Gym climbing team. The climbing team eventually stopped when Jim was chosen to be the director of the climbing in the ESPN X-Games in late 1995. When Jim left, Joe Czerwinski took over the lead course setter position. Sometime in 1996 the bouldering area was rebuilt by Chris Raypole into a more modern bouldering area which actually had marked boulder problems for climbers to be challenged with. Also eventually a lead area was built in the far back of the gym which brought the gym up to 10,000 square feet of climbing by March 1997.
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Eric Ramsey and Paul Diefenderfer
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At the time the Phoenix Rock Gym first opened, Dief was the president of the Arizona Mountaineering Club. Dief thought to himself that this indoor climbing will never be as popular as the outdoor climbing, so he was worried if his investment in building a gym would ever pay off. There were a few other gyms already opened in the USA, but at the time the Phoenix Rock gym opened, the PRG was in a 4 way tie for the 6th rock gym to open in the USA. Definitely the Phoenix Rock Gym was the first rock gym to open in Arizona, and following very close by is the Rocks & Ropes gym in Tucson, opening December 1992. Dief’s quote for his first gym, “When we were kids, we all climbed.” “Most people grow up, and that’s a big mistake.” The General managers through the 8 years of the PRG Roosevelt location were: Chris Pomeroy, Eric Eaglestun, April Prestwich, and Janette Lisco.
Phoenix Gazette 7/1/1994
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AZ Republic 1/20/1993
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AZ Republic 1/24/2001
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The location was perfect being only a half mile away from Arizona State University. Dief bought out his partner Eric Ramsey’s half of the gym allowing Dief to completely own the gym. The new location is where the PRG is presently located, 1353 E. University Dr. A lot of quick welding and another ton of plywood later and the gym opened only having the lower portion of the bouldering completed, and the lead area was still in the process of being built. Dief and Chris Raypole hastily welded up the framework for the climbing walls, eventually assisted by a few other helpers Derek Underhill and Chris Foncannon. The new location of the Phoenix Rock Gym opened December 4, 2000. Joe Czerwinski was the lead coursetter where in August 2001 that Flying Zebra guy Marty Karabin was hired as Joe’s course setter helper.
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In 2004 Dief built metal stairs which led to a second floor area located above the bathrooms. The Over The Crux climbing store owned by Daniel Arlitt and Shelley Windsor moved into the space which added more energy to the gym. The Over the Crux store closed early 2006. Since the space was available, Marty decided to start a climbing store but first had Dief construct a roof over the store, and also a rolling ladder feature. Marty opened the AZ Cliff Hanger store October 12, 2006 and it was created to look somewhat like a old mining building. The space is fantastic as it overlooks the entire gym. Due to the 2008 recession and Marty breaking his leg in 2009, the store closed June 6, 2010. Then the TUFA Climbing Store owned by Scott McKinney moved into the space October 2010, and then closed its business in 2012. The upstairs space remained unoccupied until 2015 when it was transformed into a lounge and Marty’s, Karabin Climbing Museum, filled the space with historic gear displays which is still present today.
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