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Queen Creek Canyon
​- Original bolts -


Some of the bolts that were replaced over the years in Queen Creek Canyon, Superior AZ

The Little England Wall sits around and above the Atlantis area. Originally there was only one bolt to use to rappel off of the wall that served for all of the routes on the Little England Wall. This bolt I was amazed I pulled it out by hand, it was always that loose. Regular lag bolt and drop in casing with a 1966 or newer Leeper hanger. 
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Not sure who put in this Mammut Stainless Steel hanger that has been marked "Go Home." Originally located on top of the first pitch of Legal Dihedral serving as one of the hangers for the rappel. Sunday School Wall, Road Area. 
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11-11-1995 construction workers from the mine blasted the formation Volcanic Panic apart. It was said that the formation was overhanging the road and was not safe within the canyon. But the formation actually sat back from the road and was fine. I think it was blasted to keep climbers from stopping at that particular pullout within the canyon, and creating a visual scene where cars on the road were watching the climbers as they drove by, instead of concentrating on staying within the road lines while driving. ​I added this page to my 1996 Queen Creek Canyon guidebook which shows Alex from the movie "A Clockwork Orange" as the one that is causing the Ultraviolence and ripping the top off of the Volcanic Panic Pinnacle. I noticed that the debris from the blasting was moved and placed along side of the run away truck ramp on the road near the bridge. So I scrambled around the pile of dumped rock and actually found a chunk of rock that had a visible bolt hanger still in it. 
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Original gear from the route 5.6 Zin, Sunday School Wall, The Road Area.

​In 2002 I was climbing with Steve Sales and he led the second pitch of Zin. He came across a old Chouinard angle piton, clipped it and continued on. When it was my turn to climb, following his lead, I got to the piton, and decided to grab the quickdraw that Steve attached to it. I gave it one big yank outward and the piton broke away from the crack. To my surprise there was not that much metal that was still holding the piton together. Like in no way would this piton have saved Steve's life if he had fallen. I carefully put it into my chalk bag, then continued up the route. Presently this QC artifact is on display at the Patagonia clothing company main office in Ventura CA. While Steve and I were at the second pitch belay, which was three large rusted angle pitons, we tried to remove them and they were super solid, even though they appeared super rusty and dangerous. 
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I returned a few weeks later to this route named Zin with my climbing partner Rich LeMal with the mission of bolting two ring bolts to be used as the new pitch two belay/rappel, to get rid of the danger problem. I knew that it was going to take the big tools to get the large angle pitons removed, so we hauled up a 3' long crowbar, and a car bottle jack which usually is used to change your flat tire with. It was a sketchy rig that we created where the bottle jack was facing horizontally outward, a carabiner was placed onto the piton and crow bar and then the crowbar end was jammed up against the rock, and the other end of the crowbar balanced onto the car jack. The bottle jack once pumped up would bend the crowbar, then a hammer was used to pound onto the piton, which slowly pulled the piton outward away from the crack. At any time this rig could have slipped and ricocheted into or faces or ripped our fingers off, but we succeeded on the mission. ​
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The info on the tag is incorrect. The two pitons to the left are 1960s Gerry "Cowbells" and right is a 1 1/2 Chouinard angle piton. 

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Original rappel chain anchor from The Draw, Apache Leap, Superior AZ. First placed in 1970 possibly by Don O'Kelley and Kent Brock. When I was creating the guidebook for Queen Creek Canyon and was in process of shooting the photo for the back cover of the guidebook, since I was at the bottom of the route Punk Rock, I ran down to the next drop off of the Apache Leap which is known as The Draw and I came across this very long 7' homemade chain anchor. I was psyched. So on a different time I teamed up with Rich LeMal and we went after replacing the anchor. This was not a easy task since the overall hike and then the rappels down the Leap to get to the anchor location was quite a process. Plus we were carrying a long crowbar, a bottle jack which is used for replacing tires on vehicles, all of the drilling stuff and plenty of water. The load was heavy. The idea was to clip the metal homemade piton bracket with a locking carabiner, run the crowbar also through the locking carabiner, put one end of the crowbar on stacked rocks, and put the bottle jack on the other end of the crowbar. Once the bottle jack was rising and loaded it would bend the crowbar slightly, and then the idea was to hammer on the piton to get it to pull outwards. After a few tries it was working, and eventually the prize anchor pulled away from the rock. We replaced the anchor with bolts with rap rings, and then now the even heavier load had to all be pulled back up the routes to get back to the top of the Leap, then fight the trail bushes and hike the entire Mine area to get back to the parking area. 

Once we got back to the parking area at the Mine I was totally spent and sat down against the vehicle. This is when another group of climbers arrived at the parking area also after their climbing day at the Mine Area. One of the climbers was Ed LeCroix which was telling his friend about some bar stock type of climbing chocks that he had and was going to make wind chimes out of them. I instantly knew the gear he was talking about and mentioned to him that the Karabin Museum was most interested in the CMI Beamchoks that he was talking about. Ed donated the full set to the museum. What a great day, Mission accomplished, and with an extra bonus. The 4 photos below show the 7' long homemade chain anchor.
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Paul Diefenderfer went with friends up to the Pond at the Road Area to do a little sport climbing. Dief noticed that the Pond at that time was dry and he saw a piece of metal sticking up out of the ground. It turned out to be a old dropped and forgotten Chouinard 1 1/4 Angle piton. Looks like the piton spend many years churning in the flowing waterfall and eventually made its way to the top of the ground. The Stainless steel rivet that is on the Chouinard angle piton first appeared in 1971. So the piton is from 1971 or newer. 
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Bolt hanger from the route 5.10a Perfect Stranger which was put up in 2/1995, Road Area, Sunday School Wall right. The route has interesting homemade hangers on it but nobody knew who put up the route and got the first ascent. Then one day I was climbing at the Gallery area at Red Rocks Canyon in Nevada and sure enough the same hangers were on a few of the routes especially the route just left of Yak Crack. I noticed in the book that Greg Mayer was associated with the route and may other routes with these homemade hangers so there you go. Route FA: Greg Mayer. This is a bolt from the route Perfect Stranger that went into the museum.
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