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The Little England Wall sits around and above the Atlantis area. Originally there was only one bolt to use to rappel off of the wall that served for all of the routes on the Little England Wall. This bolt I was amazed I pulled it out by hand, it was always that loose. Regular lag bolt and drop in casing with a 1966 or newer Leeper hanger.
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11-11-1995 construction workers from the mine blasted the formation Volcanic Panic apart. It was said that the formation was overhanging the road and was not safe within the canyon. But the formation actually sat back from the road and was fine. I think it was blasted to keep climbers from stopping at that particular pullout within the canyon, and creating a visual scene where cars on the road were watching the climbers as they drove by, instead of concentrating on staying within the road lines while driving. I added this page to my 1996 Queen Creek Canyon guidebook which shows Alex from the movie "A Clockwork Orange" as the one that is causing the Ultraviolence and ripping the top off of the Volcanic Panic Pinnacle. I noticed that the debris from the blasting was moved and placed along side of the run away truck ramp on the road near the bridge. So I scrambled around the pile of dumped rock and actually found a chunk of rock that had a visible bolt hanger still in it.
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In 2002 I was climbing with Steve Sales and he led the second pitch of Zin. He came across a old Chouinard angle piton, clipped it and continued on. When it was my turn to climb, following his lead, I got to the piton, and decided to grab the quickdraw that Steve attached to it. I gave it one big yank outward and the piton broke away from the crack. To my surprise there was not that much metal that was still holding the piton together. Like in no way would this piton have saved Steve's life if he had fallen. I carefully put it into my chalk bag, then continued up the route. Presently this QC artifact is on display at the Patagonia clothing company main office in Ventura CA. While Steve and I were at the second pitch belay, which was three large rusted angle pitons, we tried to remove them and they were super solid, even though they appeared super rusty and dangerous. |
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Bolt hanger from the route 5.10a Perfect Stranger which was put up in 2/1995, Road Area, Sunday School Wall right. The route has interesting homemade hangers on it but nobody knew who put up the route and got the first ascent. Then one day I was climbing at the Gallery area at Red Rocks Canyon in Nevada and sure enough the same hangers were on a few of the routes especially the route just left of Yak Crack. I noticed in the book that Greg Mayer was associated with the route and may other routes with these homemade hangers so there you go. Route FA: Greg Mayer. This is a bolt from the route Perfect Stranger that went into the museum.
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