Stubai - Austria
- Stubai founded in 1897 as “Werkgenossenschaft Fulpmes” cooperative society.
- Renamed to Stubai 1960 (Renaming beginning in 1955)- In 1997 Stubai mountain sports became AustriAlpin
The earliest mention of Stubai ice pitons I have found is the Stubai 1955 catalog.
Stubai 1955 catalog
Also the "Good Companions" Catalogue c.1959 shows Stubai. There are a few versions of the ring ice pitons. One version is that the teeth are cut on the entirety of the ring ice piton blade (1950s/1960s). The other version is two separate sets of 7 teeth on the ring ice piton blade (1960s/1970s). The ring ice piton shown in the 1958 Francis book have teeth the entirety of the blade. In the 1980 Stubai catalog it shows that the teeth run the entirety of the blade.

Then looking at the Stubai ice piton 'without' ring there are two versions as well. One version the teeth run the entirety of the blade. The other version is two separate sets of 7 teeth. The REI 1958 catalog shows a Austrian ice piton no ring. The catalog shows 'Austrian', but does not mention the manufacturer.

The three Stubai ring ice pitons shown in the Good Companions catalog are listed as 8 ins, 10 ins, 12 ins. But looking at the included illustration, the 12 ins shown is much longer than what is listed. The measurement is for the ice piton blade only, and does not include the ring or piton eye.

The ring ice piton and ice piton both started with having the teeth cut on the entirety of the piton blade. Then the teeth were designed as two separate sets of seven on each opposite end of the piton blade. But then in the 1980s the ice teeth looks like they are on the entirety of the piton blade, once again? So for now I am listing mid 1950s/early 1960s for teeth on entirety of ice piton blade, and 1960s for the separated teeth versions. The separated teeth version does show in the 1973 Ellis Brigham catalog.
Stubai 14" ice piton with ring
- Mfg mark: "Stubai" "Made in Austria"
- The teeth are on the entirety of the ice piton blade
- c.mid 1950s to early 1960s
Stubai ring ice piton - 1958 illustration showing climbing gear in a book (Francis), props John Middendorf.
Stubai - Ice piton with ring
- Mfg mark: "Made in Austria"
- Two separate sets of teeth on the ring ice piton blade
- Ice pitons measure 8" and 10"
- c.1960s
Stubai - Ice pitons
- Made in Austria
- c.1960s
- From Matthias Hofle
REI 1958 catalog lists a 12" Austrian notched flat bar
REI 1961 catalog lists a Austrian notched flat bar
- Sizes 8, 8 1/2, 10-11, and 14 1/2
Stubai - ice piton - Diamond mark
- One of the early Stubai marks is the Stubai word within a diamond. This diamond goes back to 1955. I am not sure if in the late 1950s Stubai put this mark on all of their items as they were in transition. This ice screw may be from the 1960s, or 1970s.
I feel like these two-eye ice pitons are a Stubai product, but the only mark on them is "Made in Austria." Item listed as UNKNOWN #20 Ice Pitons in the museum. Possibly mid-late 1950s Werk Fulpmes? But I feel like they are more of a item made in the later 1960s, but why no "Stubai" mfg mark?
Stubai - Twisted ice pitons
- Mfg mark" STUBAI" "MADE IN AUSTRIA"
- c.1960s (Late 1950s?)
- Two different, thin and thick metal
Stubai
- Pointed ice piton
- c.1960s
Stubai
- 1980 catalog
Hmmmmm 'AI', What is Marwa?
Marwa was not a separate company. The “Marwa” refers to a specific type of carabiner and ice screw. Designed by Sebastian Mariner (often known as “Wastl Mariner”), and produced and sold by Stubai. Stubai was the company that manufactured and marketed the carabiners and ice screws designed by Mariner.
Stubai - Marwa
- Corkscrew ice screw (extra curl)
- Mfg mark on the ice piton stem
- c.1961
The REI 1962 catalog shows the Stubai Marwa corkscrew ice screw and the illustration shows the extra curl design (First generation). The catalog does not mention a manufacturer name.
REI 1962 catalog
The 1964 Fisher catalog shows the Stubai corkscrew ice screw with only a single curl. So sometime between 1962 and 1964 the design changed.
Fisher 1964 catalog
The Eiger 1965 catalog shows the Stubai corkscrew ice screws with the extra curl design.
The Holubar 1966 catalog shows the Stubai corkscrew ice screws with the extra curl design.
Both Holubar and Eiger were possibly selling off their left over stock before introducing a image of the newer design. So for now I am listing the Stubai corkscrew ice screw as: First sold in 1961, and the design change happened sometime in 1964.
Stubai - Marwa
- Corkscrew ice screw (single curl)
- Mfg mark on the ice piton eye
- c.1964 - continuing through the 1980s
Hei-Ha - Sport Koln 1969 Katalog
Stubai - Three Cutter Tubular ice screw
- First generation
- Donated by: Peter Takeda
- Anchor from 1956 FA: Chacraraju Oeste, or 1962 FA: Charcraraju Este.
However I am not sure when Stubai first created these ice pitons. I think it was after 1962. So in saying so, possibly after the first ascent of those routes another climbing party may have attempted the route or succeeded, but left behind the Stubai ice screw. So the ice screw is from the route, but not from the First Ascent.
Stubai Three Cutter Tubular ice screws compared: First and second generation
Stubai
- 3 cutter ice screw
- Available in two sizes
- Longer size donated by: Art McCarthy
- I noticed on one of the ice screws there are mfg marks on both sides, and the other ice screw there are mfg marks on only one side. I wonder if this shows a second and third generation difference. So maybe the second generation is the ice screw that has a mfg mark only on one side.
Stubai
- 3 cutter ice screw with square
- Available in two sizes
- Longer size donated by: William Toothill