Wood wedges were used on many routes around the world as climbing gear, mostly aid, to protect wider and larger cracks. Easy to create for any size crack and inexpensive.
Three wood wedges made of hickory from Germany 1950s.
- from Matthias Hofle |
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Yvon Chouinards homemade wood wedges he made and used on routes in the 1950s. Photo by Malinda Chouinard 5/2021
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Yvon Chouinards 1950s/1960s wood wedges he purchased made in Europe.
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Wood wedges made by Pieter Dorrestein, used on the route "Phantom Spirit" on the Fisher Towers, Utah, 1998.
Page from encyclopedia of rock climbing, 1968
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Page from Hei-Ha Sport Katalog 1969
provided by Stephane Pennequin. |
Old unknown piton catalog pages, my guess from the mid 1950s.
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Conversation with Mark Bealor 4/1/2022
Hi Marty, I came across your excellent museum web site today, and thought you might like these pics of some wooden wedges I used to protect an ice-glazed wide crack. Was hoping to free climb the pitch, but learned the hard way the wedges were a barrier. But they made great steps for aiding. Cheers, Mark Bealor ............................................. Mark, Totally awesome!!! A few questions: What is the name of the route, Where is it located, Date route climbed (or best guess year). Any other info you want to add to it. I am going to add your pics to the wood wedges gear page on my website. For sure that climb looks like a very mixed adventure!!! Really cool! Thanks for getting in contact with me! :) Marty ............................................... Marty, I’m glad the pictures were interesting. They’re from February 2021. The route is in the Northern Adirondacks. It’s not named yet, we were turned back by delaminating ice on the 3rd pitch when sun hit upper face. Somewhere around 40’ from top. It’s an ephemeral route, didn’t catch it in condition this season, but hopeful we’ll finish sometime. Thanks again for a beautiful website you maintain, hope to see in person if I make it to AZ. Mark ………………. Mark, Super cool thanks for the info! Hopefully you will go back to the route and get the FA! Maybe that FA will still include the wood wedges! Rock On! Marty |
Wood wedges as gear on the harness
Wood wedges as pro at the top of the route
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