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Jim Waugh



- Climbing Magazine No. 101. April 1987.
Jim Waugh on the front cover of the Climbing Magazine.
Awesome Peter Noebels photo!
Jim leading on a double line system, shows exposure, Jim chalking up while calmly sticking the sloper and chillin' on nothing feet, wonderful colors, great lighting, ..... and most of all, his signature he later added to this magazine cover is five star clean and perfect!!!

- Climbing Magazine No. 101 is the last of the magazines that were taco folded and stapled. Climbing Magazine No. 102 and on were all created in the perfect binding glued process.
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Text to Jim from Marty   1/16/2025
Jim - Greetings. I just feel the need to apologize to you. Presently at the gym the course setting is moving at a snails pace. Setters only putting up only one route per day.

Over the past few years I was able to almost double the amount of holds that the gym has where there are no hold wars happening. Setters can use all the holds they want however they want.

When I reflect back on the past and remember how fast you were setting routes at the gym and all of the routes being of great quality, and knowing you were in your later 60s in age, that is really impressive. It’s more than impressive!!

I also reflect back of how much of a ass I was treating you at times and that’s very unfair to you. I wish you were at the gym now because it would be awesome to hang out with you as a great friend, over being a boss that was unnecessarily cracking the whip.

I just want to say with all of my heart that I am sorry. You are really a very amazing human, ….and I miss having you around!

Hope all is amazing in your world!
:) Marty

-Text to Marty from Jim.
Marty - these are very kind words. Keep it all in perspective. Sure there were tough times, but you helped me a lot. I was lucky to have the job and even luckier to know and spend time with some wonderful people including you. Thanks for everything!
:) (with sun glasses on)
Jim -vs- marty
- perspective story

Jim's climbing gear

X Games clothing

phoenix bouldering contest

Jim Waugh
- staff cards

AAC link - 2/1980 Rappel failure on the Nose, Yosemite, CA


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Jim and his wife Snow

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Working at the PRG

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You call that V5?
Felt more like a 3!


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Jim getting the second ascent of the Guillotine Roof,
June 2019, South Mountain

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Phoenix Rock - Book Review
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Polar Designs
1985 advertisement


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Phoenix Rock Guidebook
- by Jim Waugh
- c. 1987



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Granite Mountain guidebook
- by Jim Waugh
- c. 1982


Jim Waugh was scheduled to put on a slide show at Climbmax Gym, but then Climbmax Gym also included me into the event as a fundraiser for my broken femur. I didn't want to take the show away from Jim, so I gave the opening introduction to Jim. Thanks again Climbmax Gym for taking care of me when I broke my leg!
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Jim Waugh, signed, Climbing magazine Oct/Nov 1989, John Sherman photo
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Bring On The Ruckus comp, 1990s
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Jim Waugh, Climbing mag, June 1989
Superstition mtns article

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