of the show to add to my museum. For this show the manufacturers were very generous donating suitcases full of climbing affiliated trinkets for the museum. I walked away with over 100 photos signed by super mutant climbers young and old, as I shared smiles and laughs with them at the show. The OR show is a business arena, but it is also filled with climbing superstars and company owners, which is the best for a paparazzi. For this summer 2009 show the museum crew was Neo, Robert, Will, Justin and myself, and wow did we have a lot of fun! We were wined and dined by the manufacturers. There was a night at the movies. There was the Mammut super climbing finals that our friend Sierra was competing in. Also there was the citizens comp that us less mutant climbers could compete in with a chance to place on the podium.
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Robert, Will, Sierra, and Marty, summer 2009 OR show
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I stayed one extra day in Utah to climb some well known boulder problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon. From running around for four days at the show, I was just about out of energy but still really psyched to climb. I was somewhat dehydrated and the day was warm and humid so we mostly climbed in the shade. So climb climb climb and then came the last climb of the day. A easy boulder problem named Double Dyno. I climbed the boulder problem and it was simple and a lot of fun. But then I climbed the boulder problem again and then my world completely turned upside-down. My hands slipped off of the second hold and I fell only five feet to the ground landing into a leaf pile. I remember Robert immediately being there to help me back onto my feet and that is where I discovered that my right leg femur bone was broken in many places.
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Double Dyno V2, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
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I wrote a more extensive story of the accident on Mountain Project, which I supplied the link to. For the Mountain Project story I purposely did not include the spiritual visions that I was receiving, but it does go into full detail of the accident. I was afraid that people would think I was crazy, and at that time I was not strong enough to back the truth of what really happened. The first intensity was not necessarily me breaking my leg, but the paramedics telling me that they will not move me until my two feet are equal to each other. Without the femur bone in place, my knee was now located up near my hip. So after six shots of morphine, the paramedics used a come-a-long device and stretched my broken leg to be equal in length with my good leg. I have never screamed so loud in my life. I feel like my screaming woke up all of Utah. Props to Robert and Will being there witnessing the situation! Once I got to the hospital I was given even more morphine and I was basically passed out. The surgery was scheduled for very early the next morning. Robert and Will already had tickets for a early airplane flight back to AZ that morning, so now basically I was all alone in the hospital in Utah.
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University of Utah Hospital
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The surgery was performed by two ice climbers who are some of the best femur doctors in the country. When I talked to the doctors they both had climbed the boulder problem that I had fallen off of. They mentioned that it does not make sense of how little of a fall I took which created that much damage to the hardest bone to break in the human body. It was written that it was a act of God that did this damage. Listed as “Unexplainable.” As I was in the process of waking up from the surgery, I became conscious that I was in a bed and was moving upward in a tall corridor and was being moved into the center of a beautiful and colorful sphere of eyeball looking objects. A man made of yellow, orange and red (mostly orange) tiny atoms was bringing me into the sphere staying at my side the whole time. He leaned over to me and said that he will be with me the rest of my life. The atoms were so fine that even though I couldn’t see skin on his body, I could see his hair and eyebrows and he looked exactly like a human figure. I was in a laying position and was completely see-through, except I could see my veins and organs. It was like my skin had become clear.
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coming up with. This sudden change occupied my mind and took my thoughts away from the fear I should have been experiencing while laying in the hospital with a new broken leg. Then the recovery room nurse entered my room and asked how I was feeling. We got into a fun conversation, then we started talking about the visions I was having while he was attempting to wake me up. I said to him that “SINCE YOU DO THIS FOR A LIVING, YOU MUST EXPERIENCE THIS ALL OF THE TIME.” He replied back to me, “THIS WAS A FIRST FOR ME, YOU WERE TOTALLY TRIPPING MAN!” It was really cool to see how interested he was with my visions. He then said that he was glad that I was okay and he left the room.
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Big HUG Robert!!! I felt like Hannibal Smith with the A-Team saying, “I love it when a plan comes together!” In the evening of my hospital stay being day 6, I asked the nurse for some more paper so I could continue writing. She came back saying that all she could find was blank typing paper which was totally great with me. So Teacher said, “MAYBE YOU CAN HELP YOUR FRIENDS OUT WITH STUFF.” I took the paper and thought of a friends name, and then was writing notes to help them with direction in their present life. It was like I didn’t even have to think, the pen would just write. Once I filled a few pages with writings the nurse walked into my room and asked, “What are you doing?” I told her that I was writing cool notes to my friends. She then said that, “How are you doing that?” “IT IS 2:00 IN THE MORNING AND THE ROOM IS COMPLETELY DARK.” The nurse turned on the light and I was in a upright sitting position staring forward with tears running down my face and my shirt that I was wearing was soaked from the tears. I wasn’t even blinking, but just staring forward and the pen was moving across the paper as it was writing. We both looked at the paper and the writing was perfectly written like there were lines to follow on the paper. There were no scribbled out mistakes or anything. The nurse then helped me change my wet shirt to a dry shirt, and then asked me to get some sleep since I was heading back to Arizona in the morning.
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Brian's Chouinard ice axe with Tom Frost signature
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The plane trip only took one and a half hours, but it was the longest one and a half hours of my life. I kept my eyes closed the entire trip chanting to God to give me strength not to suddenly puke my guts out. I was really green! The plane landed and a airport worker that had a wheelchair waiting for me entered the plane and helped me to the wheelchair. This guy was a total angel and I tipped him greatly. I made it to Arizona!!! Outside of the airport Michelle from the rock gym was waiting for me with her car running. When I arrived to my house, Dief the owner of the rock gym was prepping my house so I could get around and even had a wheelchair for me to use. Randi was there with the kids and they were filling the pantry with food and coming up with a schedule of where do we go from here. I was so thrilled to be so well taken care of by so many friends.
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Randi and Marty
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Michelle stayed with me for a few days, then Sandy (Marty’s Angel) helped me for a few days, then my mom and dad arrived and stayed with me for two weeks. During this time I kept seeing the vision of the eyeball sphere, and could clearly hear Teachers voice, but now I could hear many other voices as well. It was really freaking me out!!! I called Glenn and the first thing I said to him was for him to get out of my head. Glenn answered back, “WHY DO YOU BELIEVE THAT IT IS ME WHO IS TALKING TO YOU?” I answered saying because he is the only person that I knew that was truly talking to the other side. Glenn was thrilled that I was seeing this great eyeball sphere vision. He said that he only knew it as Marty’s Love. The sphere was part of Marty. My mind had to get used to the sphere being real so my mind eventually concluded that the sphere was not just settings in this one present Marty story, but actually settings of Marty entirely. Settings of thousands of my lifetimes. Glenn came to my house and the first thing he said to me in the front doorway was “WOW, YOU HAVE A NEW GUIDE! Glenn then visited my house a few times talking to Randi and my kids and my mom and dad. My dad especially thought Glenn was some kind of magician or something where he told stuff to my dad of my dads past and my dads future. My dad took me to the side and said,” I don’t know how Glenn does what he does, but think first before he starts selling you something. I replied to my dad that Glenn didn’t want anything from me. He truly was my earth coach.
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Mama Karabin prepping the Zebra attire for Marty's return to rock climbing
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My friends stopped at my house and checked up on me to say hello which was awesome. The friends that I wrote the hospital notes to I had them read and many of them stated, how did you know that? The writings were all written in a very unique way. The written note to Robert’s wife Simona said, “You have the voice of a angel, let the world hear your song.” At that time Simona was producing a CD with many of her songs that she was having second thoughts on finalizing. All I knew of Simona is that she sung the Star Spangled Banner at our 2009 climbing comp at the rock gym. Robert was having trouble finding a new job and had over one hundred resumes sent with no acceptance, and Robert was getting frustrated. Robert’s written note said, “Robert is fisherman but reluctant to change his position.” “The streams water has already run dry and Robert remains with his fishing line cast into the dry mud.” “Best to move downstream like the others already have.” Robert sent out a reworded resume and was accepted for a job within the week. I don’t believe I had anything to do with Robert suddenly getting a new job. Nevertheless it was coincidental. After all of my friends read the notes on the hospital pages, I got rid of the notes. I figured the written words were for them and nobody else so there was no need to keep them.
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Simona Olson - Into Happiness CD (signed of course!) The paparazzi never sleeps!
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left that day he told me to contemplate the statement, "I Am Enough As I Am." So I took the sharpie marker and wrote it on the cover of his book. Glenn also mentioned that this is a perfect time to get to know your relationship with your parents.
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therapy three times a week and I enjoy it in a sadistic way I guess. "How are you doing?” “Get on the table, owie, owie, owie, damn! ouch, okay you are done for the day..........heres the money..........see you tomorrow." Interesting process paying for pain, but I like the results!” It was a Blessing to be with Vincent since he was just beginning his business and I had his assistance since not many other patients were present. Months later Vincent became very busy assisting other patients during my sessions. At the end of the therapy Vincent told me that he was impressed of how I forced myself to fully complete the individual tasks that he presented to me. So far no other patient that he was helping pushed themselves with the want to heal as much as I showed him. The last day of therapy I brought along devil horns and had Vincent wear them for a fun photo.
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Physical Therapist - Vincent
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My first task for my new quest was to reorganize many items I was already involved with, starting with my climbing store. The recession of 2008 made owning a small business next to impossible, especially since the business was being run on credit cards. Pre 2008 I could easily manage the credit card debt. But after the recession started the credit card companies capped off the limits to their cards since people couldn’t keep up with paying off their increased debt. My credit cards shot from 8.9% to 22% just overnight. On top of that I did not have health insurance and the hospital charged me the absolute top limit they could for my seven day stay. I used the climbing store credit cards to keep up with with the hospital billing until it drained me down to zero, and then I was forced into bankruptcy. I placed Glenn’s second book on my bookshelf and still did not even open the front cover. It was not time yet to start the new when the old was still over toppling me. AZ Cliff Hanger, my climbing store, closed in June 2010. My first feeling I had with this was….relief! Yes relief! Even as I went through the bankruptcy I was totally calm. It was very noticeable how I never felt like I had failed, and everything was only a experience. Maybe Teacher was having something to do with this but I was completely calm and lost no sleep at night. I felt a great shift happening with me.
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Once the store had closed and the bankruptcy was completed I sat down and began to read Glenn’s book. I was unaware that the book was a workbook that personal tasks had to be completed before continuing on with the book. I wanted to be with Glenn’s book being absolutely honest with myself and I cringed when I reached certain pages that stopped the forward reading until I completed my tasks. For example: one task was to contact all of my past girlfriends to make sure I caused them no hurt in their life. It took me over a year to complete Glenn’s book. After I completed it I really learned a lot about myself and was carrying less mental weight that I carried through most of my life. It felt like I took off a backpack full of bricks that I no longer had to carry. I didn’t have to remember any lies that I created that through personal perception made my identity shine that much greater. And then going forward in life it gave me a foundation on how to remain in balance. Fantastic book Glenn!!! Of course once I completed the book I was hoping that Glenn included within it a secret of life wordage or something, but he did not. Maybe my ego felt like I did good so I was to receive a pet treat or something for being good. Big laugh!!!
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Stop signs included in Glenn's Awakening book
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